Extension wiring

TheOldFellow

Which is the right (or best) way to wire extensions?

1) as a star from the master socket, or
2) as a long string starting at the master socket, or
3) it doesn't matter

I'm planning on rewiring the whole house, and will want a lot of
sockets, although not more than 'Sum of REN' number of phones,
obviously.

Thanks,
R.

John

"TheOldFellow" <> wrote in message
news:...
> Which is the right (or best) way to wire extensions?
>
> 1) as a star from the master socket, or
> 2) as a long string starting at the master socket, or
> 3) it doesn't matter
>
> I'm planning on rewiring the whole house, and will want a lot of
> sockets, although not more than 'Sum of REN' number of phones,
> obviously.

AFAIK, it doesn't matter but, having said that, the punch-down IDC
connectors are only meant to have a maximum of (I think) two wires punched
into them, so any more than two and the star idea doesn't work anyway.

As for the "sum of REN" - you could have 30 sockets if you wanted, as long
as there's no more than a REN of 4 devices plugged into them at any one
time.

John

JW

TheOldFellow wrote:
> Which is the right (or best) way to wire extensions?
>
> 1) as a star from the master socket, or
> 2) as a long string starting at the master socket, or
> 3) it doesn't matter
>
> I'm planning on rewiring the whole house, and will want a lot of
> sockets, although not more than 'Sum of REN' number of phones,
> obviously.
>
> Thanks,
> R.
>

It's normal to wire in "series" (as 2), with a junction box
for any spurs. The main reason for this is that the IDC
terminals are only designed for two connectors and three
would be unreliable. It also makes fault-finding easier.

The furthest point should be within 50 metres cable length,
though this can be exceeded if you only have one exchange
line on the cable.

Broadband complicates the issue. If you want to avoid the
need for a filter at each outlet, you can put one at the
master (if that's where the modem is) and route all the
extension cabling from the filter. I believe there are
master sockets that make this easier.

Bill

In message <>, JW <>
writes
>. It also makes fault-finding easier.
Very true.

>
>The furthest point should be within 50 metres cable length, though this
>can be exceeded if you only have one exchange line on the cable.

Why the limit on 50m?
--
Bill

JW

TheOldFellow wrote:
> Which is the right (or best) way to wire extensions?
>
> 1) as a star from the master socket, or
> 2) as a long string starting at the master socket, or
> 3) it doesn't matter
>
> I'm planning on rewiring the whole house, and will want a lot of
> sockets, although not more than 'Sum of REN' number of phones,
> obviously.
>
> Thanks,
> R.
>

It's normal to wire in "series" (as 2), with a junction box
for any spurs. The main reason for this is that the IDC
terminals are only designed for two connectors and three
would be unreliable. It also makes fault-finding easier.

The furthest point should be within 50 metres cable length,
though this can be exceeded if you only have one exchange
line on the cable.

Broadband complicates the issue. If you want to avoid the
need for a filter at each outlet, you can put one at the
master (if that's where the modem is) and route all the
extension cabling from the filter. I believe there are
master sockets that make this easier.

Bill

In message <>, JW <>
writes
>. It also makes fault-finding easier.
Very true.

>
>The furthest point should be within 50 metres cable length, though this
>can be exceeded if you only have one exchange line on the cable.

Why the limit on 50m?
--
Bill

TheOldFellow

On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 12:38:37 +0000
TheOldFellow <> wrote:

> Which is the right (or best) way to wire extensions?
>
> 1) as a star from the master socket, or
> 2) as a long string starting at the master socket, or
> 3) it doesn't matter
>
> I'm planning on rewiring the whole house, and will want a lot of
> sockets, although not more than 'Sum of REN' number of phones,
> obviously.
>
> Thanks,
> R.
>


Another thought. What wire to use - I'll be buying some Cat5e/6 for the
network wiring (I have a Solwise NTE5a front with built-in ADSL filter),
is this OK to use Cat5e/6for the phone wiring too?

Currently my S/N is crap unless I run straight from the NTE5a
(Kitchen Cupboard), which is one driver for the rewire (I can't do
anything about being 6 Km from the exchange ;( ). I'm going to put
the ADSL modem/router right next to the NTE5a, and run four radials
terminating in wall sockets at strategic locations. I don't want
wireless as all my walls have foil-backed insulation in 'em.

R.

Owain

TheOldFellow wrote:
> Which is the right (or best) way to wire extensions?
> 1) as a star from the master socket, or
> 2) as a long string starting at the master socket, or
> 3) it doesn't matter
> I'm planning on rewiring the whole house, and will want a lot of
> sockets, although not more than 'Sum of REN' number of phones,
> obviously.

If you want a lot of sockets I would just flood wire with Cat5 data
cable, and use a small patch panel to change sockets between phone and
data as required.

Star wiring makes it easier to add a small PBX later, or to isolate an
individual faulty extension.

Owain

JW

TheOldFellow wrote:
> On Mon, 10 Dec 2007 12:38:37 +0000
> TheOldFellow <> wrote:
>
>> Which is the right (or best) way to wire extensions?
>>
>> 1) as a star from the master socket, or
>> 2) as a long string starting at the master socket, or
>> 3) it doesn't matter
>>
>> I'm planning on rewiring the whole house, and will want a lot of
>> sockets, although not more than 'Sum of REN' number of phones,
>> obviously.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> R.
>>
>
>
> Another thought. What wire to use - I'll be buying some Cat5e/6 for the
> network wiring (I have a Solwise NTE5a front with built-in ADSL filter),
> is this OK to use Cat5e/6for the phone wiring too?
>
> Currently my S/N is crap unless I run straight from the NTE5a
> (Kitchen Cupboard), which is one driver for the rewire (I can't do
> anything about being 6 Km from the exchange ;( ). I'm going to put
> the ADSL modem/router right next to the NTE5a, and run four radials
> terminating in wall sockets at strategic locations. I don't want
> wireless as all my walls have foil-backed insulation in 'em.
>
> R.
>

Cat 5 is essentially telephone cable manufactured to a more
exacting standard for higher bandwidth. It's over the top
for voice, but it'll work. You may find it a little harder
to draw in tight spaces.

I'd echo Owain's suggestion of a full star-wired network,
with a patch panel in the cupboard next to the Router and
twin outlets in the rooms. You can then put wired PCs,
printers etc anywhere. The phone line can be wired in
parallel to a number of patch outlets for connection to the
room outlets. If you don't want to use RJ-BT adaptors, you
can get modular outlets which take BT or RJ sockets. Costs
for this will be a bit higher than using telephone-grade
components, and the connectors require a bit more care to
terminate.

JW

Bill wrote:
> In message <>, JW <> writes
>> . It also makes fault-finding easier.
> Very true.
>
>>
>> The furthest point should be within 50 metres cable length, though
>> this can be exceeded if you only have one exchange line on the cable.
>
> Why the limit on 50m?

It was a recommendation on the early Oftel wiring code for
domestic extensions, based on multiple exchange lines
sharing a cable, presumably to do with cross-talk limits.
For a single-line, the cabling could go up to 250m.